How To Clean A Hayward Sand Pool Filter
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This mail service is intended to provide a more in-depth await at how the filter works. This mail service is NOT a substitute for understanding how to perform the basic functions of your filter in the daily operation of your pool. Please see the Pool School article for that information.
Many new members with sand filters ask the question, "When should I change my sand?" The short respond is, usually never. Sand existed for millions of years before it ended up in your filter. A few years of working on your pool won't change it. While there are some rare circumstances where sand may need to exist inverse, in full general a deep cleaning can do wonders for your filter's efficiency.
Anatomy of a Filter
Hayward S180T sand filter

This is a picture of the filter. The Red circle is the "Intake" from the pump. The yellowish circle is the "discharge" to the return. The orange circle is the waste material port and the greenish circle is the sight drinking glass.
Not pictured is the band collar that secures the multiport to the filter torso.

This is the meridian view of the multiport with all of the settings. These six screws will detach the multiport, non split up the multiport from the filter trunk. Disassembly is necessary just to get to the spider gasket (where serviceable). To disassemble, remove all half-dozen phillips head screws. This volition reveal the primal, cover, and handle assembly, as well every bit the spider gasket. The spider gasket on this particular multiport is not a serviceable item.

This is the multiport, removed from the filter, as viewed from the lesser. Small-scale leaks from under the band collar are normally explained by the blue o-ring non being seated properly or being damaged (if tightening the band collar doesn't fix the leak). The lesser of the multiport will be seated on the standpipe in the next motion-picture show.

This is a bird's eye view of the filter with the multiport removed. The pipe in the middle is the standpipe. Detect the sparse layer of debris on top of the sand bed. As you lot will see later in the video, this layer volition be removed, followed past a deep make clean of the sand bed, before reassembling the filter.


This is the lateral assembly removed from the filter. Every bit seen in the second photo, the openings in the lateral fingers are each only thinner than a grain of sand. Always use extreme caution when working with the laterals to prevent damage. On this model, the laterals themselves exercise not screw in to the standpipe. The screws at the base of the assembly must exist removed and the base separated to access each lateral. Other styles have each lateral finger threaded and so that it can screw into the base of the assembly.
Sand Filtration 101
And so how exactly does the water become clean? Recollect those settings on the top of the multiport? Let'southward walk through them. Ruby-red arrows stand for unfiltered water from the pool. Blue arrows correspond clean filtered water. Green arrows correspond dirty water.
WARNING - When you plough the handle, the water is diverted in different directions based on the settings chosen. All changes must be fabricated with the pump off! Put some other way, never turn the multiport handle while the pump is running.
Special thanks goes to Leebo for virtually cut open and then rebuilding my filter so you all tin can come across the inside.

FILTER - Filter is normal operation. On this setting, puddle water enters the intake and is sprayed on top of the sand bed. Information technology travels through the sand bed nether pressure, where the sand filters out particulates. This now clean h2o enters the laterals at the lesser of the filter, travels up the standpipe to the multiport, and out the belch where it returns to the pool.

BACKWASH - Every bit your filter cleans your pool, it becomes chock-full with all of the particulate thing that was in the puddle. Filter pressure will increase while menstruum decreases. Backwashing is necessary to clear out that sand and return the filter to normal menstruum. TFP recommends backwashing when filter force per unit area rises 20-25% above the clean pressure functioning. In backwash mode, the flow is reversed from normal filter operation. Unfiltered pool water enters the intake and is directed down the standpipe, out the laterals and up through the sand bed. This action dislodges all of the dirt and particulate matter that has been trapped in the sand. This dirty water is sent out the waste material port on the back of the multiport. Backwashing not merely "washes" the sand, just as well leads to resettling it in the next pace, which is....

RINSE - ....rinsing. Rinse is exactly the aforementioned every bit filter, except the filtered water is sent out the waste material line instead of dorsum into the pool. This pace should always happen afterwards backwashing for two reasons. Get-go, whatsoever dirt and debris in the filter that did non get ejected during the backwash is now in suspension with the sand. Firsthand filtering could put some of it in the puddle. Second, the rinse helps resettle the sand bed for when the arrangement is placed back in filter manner.

RECIRCULATE - This way bypasses the filter completely, every bit if it was removed from the plumbing loop. Unfiltered pool h2o enters the intake, skips the sand, and immediately goes out the belch and dorsum to the pool. The most practical use of this setting is during the early stages of a SLAM overnight, where mixing of the puddle water is desired, but filtration would reduce flow too quickly.

WASTE - In this manner, unfiltered puddle water bypasses filtration and is ejected out the waste port. The well-nigh common uses for this manner would be "vacuuming to waste matter," or for draining the pool.
The final settings on this multiport (and pictures don't really help) are as follows:
WINTER - The multiport is intentionally placed between two settings, completely opening upwardly the passageways. This setting is used while the filter is empty over winter.
Closed - This turns the filter into a giant ball valve, cutting off and blocking water menses between intake and discharge.
The Ultimate Deep Clean
Backwashing is a maintenance activity that should be taken during the swim season (or the SLAM process) when catamenia slows down and pressure rises. Sometimes a aftermath just isn't good enough. This is when a deep make clean is required.
The deep cleaning should exist done once a yr at the beginning of your flavour to ensure the sand bed is settled properly. It volition likewise assist dislodge the debris from underneath the laterals at the very lesser of the filter. Finally, it is possible that filters get so dirty, packed and clumped together, small channels form in the sand. Water can take this route instead of through the sand, profoundly reducing the cleaning power of the filter.
Waterbear gave u.s.a. the following instructions from this post:
Open upwardly the filter so the sand bed is exposed. Stick a garden hose into the sand and turn on the water. The sand should loosen upwards and all the dirt and gunk should bladder and overflow out of the filter. You might need to stir up the sand a bit. Go along this up until the water flood out of the filter is clean. If any sand is clumped together CAREFULLY intermission it upwardly with something like a broom handle but BE VERY Conscientious Non TO DAMAGE THE LATERALS. You will exist surprised at how much stuff this gets out of your filter than backwashing doesn't and I feel this 'deep cleaning' should be done yearly. This should take care of the channeling but if the sand has a lot of calcium deposits you might want to follow this up with an acidic sand filter cleaner from the pool shop.
** WARNING -- Earlier starting this process, be sure that the filter is isolated from the puddle plumbing. I filmed this video at the very commencement of the swim season, and my plumbing was not hooked upward yet. If the filter is still connected, turn off valves, disconnect plumbing, or practice whatever you lot need to practise to isolate your filter from the system. If you don't do this pace, as you fill the filter with water, the junk and grime will autumn into the standpipe and go correct back into your pool.**
The following videos bear witness the deep cleaning.....
https://youtu.be/MpNEBIIR5P4
https://youtu.be/1wBhwYv_RKI

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I cleaned mine out today and it was then grouse what came out. I had what appears to be lumps of decayed cloth/poop sitting on the summit and I had back filled/cleaned the media already for 10 minutes before my pump gave out. So, I definitely appreciate the guidance on deep cleaning.
1. Are there issues if no sand comes out of the bottom of the drain port? I filled it three times and discharged, while I was cleaning, and still no sand.
2. Is there a general distance/elevation that should exist between the sand bed and the neckband? My filter had nigh 12" of empty space between the collar and the sand bed and while I saw/lost a lot of sand, in the past two years, in/on the pool flooring I as well vacuumed it support.
3. If you lot still encounter "junk" after thirty minutes, of constantly digging/cleaning in should you continue or consider replacement? I used to keep salt water aquariums and at that place are times where the sand is really gone and you are better off throwing it away and starting over.
4. Do you recommend bleaching/cleaning the sand with one of those cleaner(south).
5. I noticed a lot of bubbling forming fifty-fifty after 30 minutes of churning the sand, and the hose never reached the summit/left the water, then is it fair to assume that we should continue cleaning/digging into the sand until no micro-bubbles are nowadays?
6. Going back to the salt water aquarium, filters tend to build upwardly (adept) bacteria that helps with breaking downward organics. So, I would recall that if yous did it outside of a SLAM (or high chlorine scenario) it could have a negative impact on the chemistry of the pool and nosotros should more than aggressively monitor our water chemical science?
I promise this helps other users and I appreciate any insight.
Thank you in advance!
Ben

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two) It varies from filter to filter. Oftentimes the correct acme is mentioned in the manual.
3) No, just rinse longer.
4) No, water when rinsing and chlorine when in normal use is sufficient. There is a very rare exception when the filter sand is all a gluey gunky mess (most never happens).
5) Bubbles aren't a good indicator.
6) Nothing lives in a puddle filter, so there is nothing like this with a puddle filter.
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- May 22, 2013
- ii,755
- Cape Coral, FL
- Puddle Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
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Is at that place a way to overflow the filter without pouring water all over the identify? My filter is in a pool shed with wooden floors (and questionable electric that I however need to sort out). I don't feel safe overflowing the filter onto the flooring.
If you lot had a style to shut the hose off you could utilise a wet vac to suck the stuff up but y'all'd need to be able to shut off the water between emptying the vac.
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- May 22, 2013
- 2,755
- Cape Coral, FL
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Blazon
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
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Is there a way to overflow the filter without pouring water all over the place? My filter is in a pool shed with wooden floors (and questionable electrical that I still need to sort out). I don't feel safe inundation the filter onto the floor.
I know this was a month ago but I ran across someone who had a similar trouble of not wanting all that stuff where the filter is and thought to use a pocket-size pond pump at the superlative to pump the water away from the filter.
Seemed similar a proficient idea and much easier than trying a shop vac.

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Found a place betwixt the pump and filter that had stuff. Only got half of information technology out, but can try once more another time to remove it all.
Thank yous for posting this tutorial, it fabricated it seem less intimidating!

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- May 22, 2013
- 2,755
- Cape Coral, FL
- Puddle Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
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